Thanks to my wife, Donilee, for her patience, as I've spent hundreds of hours working on "the Fairmont."  I also want to express my appreciation to my brother, Randy, for his help and willingness to listen to my ideas over the years, and to my folks, Lynn and Gloria, for providing me with a place to work (and the tools) in the "early years" of this project.  Most of all, I want to thank my Lord and Savior, Jesus.  Without Him, I wouldn't be blessed with the life I've been given. 

Background  I've had my 1979 Futura Sport Coupe since 1983.  I bought it for my daily driver but several months after I got it I got the "bug" to modify it.  I had sold a pro-street Maverick a few months prior to buying the Fairmont, and missed the fabrication and fun of having something different to drive.  I had run Cleveland Power in my Maverick and had parts laying around, so it was natural that I selected that source of power for the Mont.  Even though Clevelands are considered old technology and don't have the best oiling system, I'm still  happy with my decision.

I fabricated a lot of my own parts originally when I built the car.  It came with the 200 I-6 engine so the k-member was wrong for a simple bolt-in.  Fox chassis swaps weren’t that common at the time and I wasn’t aware of the k-member differences (this was 1984—and I was younger and dumber). :-)  The engine/trans assembly was supported by an insulated motor plate-type structure.  It was made out of chrome-moly tubing and clevises attached to a 3/16” plate sandwiched between the water pump and timing cover plate, which triangulated out to the insulated mount.  The transmission cross member was the sole support at the rear of the engine/trans.  Homemade headers, a too small exhaust system, and subframe connectors were some of the other pieces I designed and had welded up.  The 9-inch rear end came from a 1968 Mercury full-size and I got the housing shortened and axles re-splined so I could fit my 15x8 Weld wheels inside the stock wheel housings.

Engine/Driveline  The car is currently powered by a junk yard short block, which has been boosted through the use of a set of small port, small chamber Australian 302C 2V heads.  I’m running mostly Comp Cams pieces, including a hydraulic Magnum 280 cam, springs and other hardware, and Rhoads lifters.  Induction is taken care of with a Weiand X-celerator intake manifold, 750 Holley and K&N air cleaner.  Other additions include Motorsport tall aluminum valve covers and bolt-down roller rockers, MSD Pro Billet distributor and 6-AL box, Taylor 8mm  wires, and Moroso oil pan and pickup.  Transmission choice is a C6 with Precision Converter 10-inch converter, TCI deep pan, shift kit/internals, and safety shield. 

Current Configuration  My long term goal has always been to use my Fairmont as a triple-duty vehicle: to drive it on the street and take to car shows during the spring and summer months, run it at the drag strip on occasion, and also show it at car shows during the winter.  I have always been big into aesthetics and using quality items, so I have chosen not to cut corners when designing or selecting parts.  About three years ago I decided to refine the car, both in function and appearance and redesigned the engine mounting system as well as the fluid systems in the car.  It now sports a 6061-T6 aluminum motorplate that solidly attaches to brackets that bolt to the front frame rails.  Similarly, a mild steel mid-plate mounts to removable brackets mounted inside the frame rails.  Pro Mustang swap headers have replaced my original “headers” and a full-length 3” home fabricated exhaust system flowing through 3-chamber Flowmaster mufflers is now in place.  Other changes included the introduction of much needed 3.70 gears in the rear end, a 10-inch higher stall torque converter, Griffin aluminum radiator and revised fuel system (dual Holley blue pumps, Jaz 16-gallon cell, and Aeroquip hoses/fittings).  Rolling stock currently includes 15x5 Weld Pro Stars on the front end, wrapped with M/T Sportsmans (26x7.50), while Goodyear radials (P255/60R-15) encompass a set of 15x8 Cragar Drag Stars.  My intended dragstrip setup includes a pair of M/T ET Streets (28x11.5), mounted on 15x8 Welds, bringing up the rear.

Future Plans: Mechanical  Mechanically, I am planning to make three changes to the car.  I want to install a new short block. I originally planned to use a .030 over Cleveland with forged flat top pistons.  I have recently decided I want to build a stroker instead, which will be based on a Scat 3.85 stroke crank and 6.0" Eagle connecting rods.  When I’m ready to install that short block I will upgrade to a retrofit hydraulic roller cam (brand and specs undetermined at this time) and Crane linked HR lifters.  I am also working on introducing EFI into the ignition/fuel system.  It will be based on Ford factory mass-air technology.  Planned sources are Ford Racing (wiring harness and ECU), Paxton (pump, filter, and regulator, Aeroquip, modified 351W TFS intake, BBK (throttle body), and Pro-Flow (MAF, elbow, and hoses.)  Technically, the intake is finished, but it needs considerable cosmetic work before it will be ready to install.  Finally, I am just finishing an upgrade of the  suspension on both ends of the car.  This includes tubular, lightweight components in the front (Flaming River manual rack and shaft, D&D Motorsports k-member and lower arms, and HAL adjustable coil-over struts), while at the rear HP Motorsport Megabite Jr. LCAs have been installed.

Future Plans: Appearance  The car is currently dark brown metallic, with a fiberglass lift off hood from U.S. Body Source.  A few years ago I fabricated an aluminum pro-stock style wing.  I overbuilt it, and it weighs a young ton, but I believe it looks pretty good.  I may eventually try to remake it out of fiberglass.  My final body project is to fabricate a one-off set of Fairmont GT body panels, patterned very closely after the 1987-93 Mustang GT ground effects panels.  I am excited in how their appearance is turning out, but not in how long it’s taking me to get them made... :-)  I plan to get the car repainted after I’ve completed the body mods, as well as get the underside of the chassis detailed.  I’m not sure yet what color, or colors, it will be.

Links to other automotive sites of interest.

Feel free to drop me an e-mail if you have questions or comments.

 



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